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Anyone can take the road into this Kingston suburb, founded as a haven for freedmen. Its name refers to Emancipation Day of Aug. On the way in, one can see a beautifully preserved mural of two 20th-century men who capture the ethos of Caribbean black liberation: Marcus Garvey and Haile Selassie.
At the time, I had no idea that Garvey would soon be pardoned by Joe Biden in one of his last acts as president, plastering Garvey's name in American headlines for the first time in decades. He was convicted on trumped-up mail fraud charges in , a prosecution less about any crime than it was about Garvey's towering stature as an activist who founded the Universal Negro Improvement Association and advocated for black people's rights in the U.
I'm not strictly here for Garvey, though ultimately I am. I'm on my way to see Alexander Bedward's church, or what remains of it. The congregation led by Bedward and largely inherited by Garvey is one of the West's most important liberation stories, one that doesn't make it into most history books. Jamaica's modern history is perhaps best understood through the schisms and revivals that motivated Bedward to start the Native Baptist Church in the late 19th century.
Specifically, the people who would form the Native Baptists had grown quite distrustful of the mainline Baptists and their friendly relations with British and American missionaries. The Panama Canal and the railway projects were paying free black people a pittance compared to other laborers, and the people of August Town started to feel like maybe they'd gotten a bit of a raw deal.
Bedward preached a radical anti-establishment message of self-sufficiency and pan-Africanism. This, unsurprisingly, got Bedward arrested for sedition and committed to a mental asylum. Bedward lost some influence in his later life, but he told his congregation that he was only the first in a series of prophetsβthat he was the Aaron to Garvey's Moses. By the time he died in , most Bedwardites had become Garveyites, and a few years later Rastafari permanently toppled the colonial hold on cultural hegemony.